Sewing 18th Century Pockets

I have been admiring all the Mid-Autumn festival mooncake packaging that is in the Chinese supermarkets right now. I decided to digitize an embroidery design with bunnies and a moon to go on a bag. I switched tracks in the middle to put the design on an 18th century pocket, but I’m planning on re-visiting the bag after this.

bunny and moon 18th century pockets

I took photos as I was assembling my sampler so here’s a quick blog post on how I assemble 18th century pockets.

I started with my stitched out pockets. These are stitched out on my Babylock Spirit using Isacord polyester thread on a heavy linen. The embroidery files on my Etsy shop for anyone who wants to make some bunny pockets too. =)

bunny and moon 18th century pockets

I put a liner layer on the back of the embroidered front panel to protect the embroidery. I pin the liner layer to the front panel…

bunny and moon 18th century pockets

And baste around the outside edge and along the guidelines for the opening. (The basting line is in pink here.)

bunny and moon 18th century pockets

bunny and moon 18th century pockets

I cut the opening open.

bunny and moon 18th century pockets

Using 1/4″ double fold bias tape, I bind the opening edge. I found what works for me is stitching the binding down on one side, hand stitching the corner turn, and then machine stitching the other side. I haven’t been able to figure out  a good way to use the machine to go around that corner, so I just do it by hand.

bunny and moon 18th century pockets

bunny and moon 18th century pockets

Then I take the backing fabric and stitch it to the front panel. (It’s the green line on this photo which is a little hard to see. Sorry!)

bunny and moon 18th century pockets

I cut along the outside guideline…

bunny and moon 18th century pockets

And bind the outside edge.

bunny and moon 18th century pockets

bunny and moon 18th century pockets

I like to machine stitch one side of the bias binding and hand finish the backside so no machine stitching is visible.

bunny and moon 18th century pockets

I take a wider piece of bias binding and bind the top edge, leaving the two ends open to create a channel.

bunny and moon 18th century pockets

And done! A piece of twill tape will be threaded through the bias tape channel to tie the pockets around my waist.